Wooden Pergola For Your Garden
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Here's a nice weekend project for the “do-it-yourself” crowd; a handsome wooden pergola to adorn your garden walkway.
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This easy-to-build pergola will enhance the appearance of most any garden area or outdoor walkway.
While there are a few different types of appropriate lumber for building this unit, pressure-treated yellow pine is probably one of the best. If you can find it, and afford it, western cedar is especially nice.
It used to be that redwood was a popular choice for building outdoor-type woodworking projects, designated for patio and garden areas, but because of their scarcity, due to massive deforestation, redwood has all but vanished from the modern building scene. Sadly, the days using this beautiful redwood species as a building material are likely behind us forever. But you can still get very good results by using a comparable species like western red cedar and other comparable cedars, or even juniper wood, where they're available.
There are a few other species to choose from (though they're little-known and seldom used species) that are appropriate choices for building outdoor projects. These species include common hemlock, locust, and white oak. However, white oak is pretty expensive and can be heavy to work with --- on the other hand, it's also an extremely durable species, and will last for many years exposed to the harsh outdoor elements.
This handsome pergola will require a bit of heavy work for a single person to do alone, which is why it will be a good idea to have an extra set of helping hands available. With a helper standing by, this “heavy” work will become much easier and less strenuous.
Some Points To Consider Before You Begin
There will be a small amount of digging required; specifically, this will entail digging a series of four small post holes, the same kind of holes you would dig when setting fence posts. Secondly, you'll need to use either gravel fill, or mix and set a few sacks of ready-mix concrete. Of course, these bags can be heavy, usually about 80 pounds.
Note: If you find these bags are too much weight for you to lift, there are some short-cuts you can use to get around the heavy lifting. Otherwise, you can simply use gravel to fill the post holes, which will also allow you to move the pergola much more easily in the future, should you have the need to do so.
As beginners' woodworking projects go, this one might be bit adventurous, but never the less, it can still be accomplished without problems, as long as it's thought through and planned carefully. Even if your skills are minimal, you can do this project.
Just follow the directions, and be sure to have an extra set of hands to help.
It's probably a good idea to try and visualize the space where you wish to locate the pergola; a good way to do this is to make a very simple mock-up of the unit, and place it in the desired location. Try taking some long sticks of scrap lumber (8 foot pieces), tack together a rough pergola form, and stand them up in that area, if it helps you visualize the project in its finished form. Contractors do this sort of thing for homeowners sometimes, for this very reason.
Try to imagine the finished pergola in place. You might even cut out some scrap cardboard and tack these pieces in place. In essence, you'll be making a very rough facsimile of the finished pergola. Take a good long look at the mock-up from all angles and several locations in your yard. This will help you better determine how to approach the project.
You may also be able to take a digital photo of your yard/garden area, scan a sketched image of the pergola load, and load these images onto your computer. Then, you could play around with a program like Photo Shop, to help you realize and see the possibilities.
Another key consideration involves the type of garden you have and what kind of vine you'd like to see growing on and around your pergola. Many folks love the appearance of flowering vines like Clematis. Others prefer plants like English Ivy. This is a point that you'll want to consider carefully, because once the pergola is in place and the vines established, you'll probably have to live with it for quite a while.
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Here's what you'll need to build this attractive garden pergola:
Tools
- Chop Saw, with at least an 8-inch cutting capacity
- Jig Saw with long (2-inch) wood-cutting blade (or Band Saw)
- 3/8-inch Power Drill
- 3/8-inch drill bit
- 1/8-inch drill bit
- two #2 Phillips
- Driver bits (always have an extra driver bit handy)
- countersink bit
- Palm Sander, with 100-grit sandpaper
- A One-inch Wood Chisel (for making four lap joints)
- 4-foot Level
- 8-foot Ladder
- An adjustable wrench ( “Crescent Wrench” )
- Framing Hammer (if you prefer to use nails instead of screws)
- A Mylar “French Curve” Template or a Drawing Compass
- Safety Glasses --- Don't forget to wear these!
It's also a good idea to wear a pair of work gloves, especially if your hands aren't used to handling heavy lumber. Splinters of pressure-treated lumber can be large and painful!
Also, please note that if you prefer to use nails, make sure that you use the right type – galvanized “twist-shank” nails – or, galvanized “ring-shank” nails. These types of nails are designed specifically for outdoor and decking use. If using nails, you will need two of or three different sizes, and there's usually a minimum to buy, so plan for this.
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Plan Ahead!
If you wish to set the legs of this pergola in concrete piers, don't forget to plan for this. Figure on one 80-lb. sack of ready-mix concrete per hole. So, four bags would be needed to set the four legs. You could also set the legs in gravel. Avoid setting the posts directly into the soil, as this will induce decay in the wood.
If you will be mixing concrete, you'll need a mixing hoe, a wheel barrow, a water source, an empty 5-gallon bucket, a shovel, and a post-hole digger. Get some help with this job, and don't forget to clean out the wheel barrow and all tools that come in contact with the concrete. Once the cement sets, you can't get it off.
Use the least amount of water possible to mix your concrete. Too much water will only weaken the mix. Work quickly with the ready-mix, and don't try to work with more than one bag at a time by hand. Wear gloves, and rinse your skin if you come in contact with cement. Portland cement is caustic. Don't forget to wear safety glasses, as well.
Use galvanized hardware ties if you prefer not to set the posts directly into concrete.
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Materials
- Small box of 3-inch Galvanized Wood (Decking) Screws
- 8 pcs. 3/8-inch x 3-inch long Zinc-plated Lag Screws
- 8 pcs. of 3/8-inch zinc-plated flat washers
- 3 pcs. -- 2 x 4 x 12-foot Pressure-Treated Pine
- 4 pcs. -- 4 x 4 x 8-foot Pressure-Treated Pine
- One 8-foot length of Pressure-Treated Pine Handrail (Round-over or Bull Nose) w/ pre-cut channel on the underside --- ask for “lattice cap rail” at lumber yard
- One 8-foot length of Pressure-Treated Pine Bottom Rail, for lattice panel
- One 4 x 8-foot sheet of Pressure Treated Pine Lattice
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If your local lumber yard doesn't carry lattice panels and associated top and bottom rails, you may choose to build (or purchase) a simple pressure-treated pine “balustrade”. These consist of pre-assembled railings for outdoor uses, like decks and porches. They feature 2-inch by 2-inch spindles, and a bull-nosed (rounded) handrail, with contained lower rail.
Building balustrades and railings are the kinds of jobs that are a bit advanced for beginners. However, if you live in an area where there are only limited choices for building materials and you feel up to the challenge, by all means – have at it!
============= Special Note on cutting lattice panels ============
Lattice can be tricky to cut. The staples used to put these panels together can be dangerous to cut through if you don't know what you're doing. To save time, and avoid potential problems, ask the lumber yard to cut it for you. They have powerful radial arm saws mounted vertically on walls, which can cut most sheet good (like lattice) quickly and easily. So, if you have no experience doing this kind of cutting, it would be wise to get this kind of help. Just be sure to have the panel dimensions for your pergola with you.
Those dimensions are 30 inches by 48 inches. Remember, you need two of these panels.
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Assembly
To begin, take all four of the 4 x 4's, and mark one end of each to receive a 1�-inch deep by 3�-inch wide lap joint. To do this, take a look at the first drawing which shows an isometric view of the pergola. Note how the 2 x 4's (with the “x” marks on them) are attached at the top of the pergola frame. These are lap joints, and as you can see, you will need to make a lap joint in the top of each 4 x 4.
Now, set up your chop saw; then, take all of the 8-foot 4 x 4's, and make plunge cuts, in all of them, exactly 1�-inches down. You can then turn the 4 x 4's around, and make another plunge cut into each one, exactly 1� -inches down again, which will almost complete the cut. You will need to finish this lap joint by hand, using a 1-inch wood chisel.
Once you've got the lap joints made, you're ready to build the two main frames.
Pre-drill the 8 lag screw holes– two per each lap joint– as shown in the drawing. Pre-drill these holes, using a �-inch wood bit, just drilling deep enough for the 3-inch lag screw to sink all the way in, which will be 1 �.
Now, take one of the 8-foot 2 x 4's, measure and mark it at 48 inches, and cut it. Then, trim the other piece to 48 inches, as well. Take these two 48-inch 2 x 4's and attach them to the 4 x 4's where you made the lap joints to receive them.
Put a flat washer on each lag screw, and proceed to run the lag screws in, using your adjustable wrench. Run these in tight ---- snug is tight enough --- don't over tighten!
You should now have two upside-down “U”-shaped frames assembled.
At this point, you should go ahead and set your posts into the ground. Now, this is very important; you must make sure that your frames are both “plumb” and level, once they're set into the ground. If you're setting them in concrete, set all the posts at the same time, and use small stones to shim them up to “level and plumb”, as needed. Use your 4-foot level to check the upright posts for “plumb”, and the 2 x 4's sitting on top for “level”.
Now, install both lattice panels, handrails, and bottom rails all at once, according to the dimensions in the drawing. Once you've got these installed, you're ready to fill the four holes with concrete (or gravel). Do not let the concrete set up until you've double-checked for plumb and level!
You can shovel concrete or gravel into the holes while you're checking for level and plumb, but make sure you have your helper do this with you, as it's tricky for one person to do alone. Once you've got the four posts set into the ground, wait for the concrete to set up. This will happen in a few hours, so go take a break for a bit if you want.
Once you're ready to resume working, take the remaining four sticks of 2 x 4 lumber, and mark them with the “S” cuts, according to the drawing. You can use either a drawing compass or a French Curve template --- both items can be found at an art supply store. Cut these shapes out, using either a jig saw or a band saw. Sand down these ends once you've got them looking the way you like them.
Look at the side-view drawing, and note the placement of these four 2 x 4's. You will need to get up on the ladder, and attach these four pieces, either with the 2� -inch galvanized wood screws, or with galvanized nails. Have your helper hold the ladder. Just be sure you've got these boards spaced out evenly, and also be sure that each one has the proper amount of overhang --- this is very important!
Once you got these four pieces of lumber attached, you should be looking at the completed project.
It's best to let the pergola “season” for at least 6 months. It takes this long for the moisture to leech out --- and, by that time you'll be able to apply a polyurethane or paint finish. After the pergola has seasoned, you'll want to scrub it down and let it air-dry completely, before applying a finish.
This will also be the best time to do any sanding that's needed. It's difficult to try and sand pressure-treated lumber right from the lumber yard. Such lumber is almost always saturated with moisture, due to being stored outdoors.
All that's left to do is create a walkway, perhaps out of brick or flag stone, plant some vines, do a little-touch-up landscaping, and sit back enjoy your new addition.
