Wooden Trimwork And Moldings Part 2
By Eric Knudsen
In Part 1 of this article, we went back in time, back to the Victorian Era. It was a period marked by woodworking artisans, who created beautiful and fantastic trim schemes, elaborate “gingerbread” fretwork, and ornamental carpentry.
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Finely detailed examples of fine woodworking, created by the hands of true artists.
Now, we're going to jump ahead to the modern age, and discuss the different types of molding products available today. Plus, we'll give some helpful tips on how to work with these products.
Different Types Of Trim And Molding Products
Two of the more common alternative materials are “composites” --- made from glues and wood “by-products” like wood shavings, particles, and wood dust. The other common alternative material is a rigid foam product, usually prime-coated, ready to receive a paint finish. New formulations of both types of materials are being created every year.
Today, there are three basic types of wooden moldings and trim available; a solid wood product, clear, with a straight grain, “finger-jointed” stock, and wood composite stock.
Solid Wood Trim:
Will accept virtually any type of liquid finish, but is best-suited for natural finishes, because of its raw appearance. Straight grained wood trim is strong, and is nice to work with. It sands well, and can be stained to enhance its natural grain.
Finger-Jointed Trim:
This type of trim stock should be used when strength is not an issue, and an inexpensive painted finish is desired. Finger-jointed trim is a good choice when project costs are an issue. These products must be primed or sealed thoroughly, on all sides, because joint separation, warping, and splitting can be an issue. Nail holes should be pre-drilled, if nailing trim by hand. Nail and brad guns may split this kind of trim. Try to nail away from joints.
Wood Composite Trim:
Modern composites have been formulated to behave fairly well in recent years. Doors, wainscoting, shelving, and many types of trim made from composites, which are also known as “high-density board”. The much-improved material is nice to work with; it lays very flat, it sands fairly well, it cuts well, leaving crisp details when sawed, and it retains profiles clearly when put through routers or shapers.
In terms of finishing, composites must be painted, because of their particulate nature. However, due to their favorable degree of workability, woodworkers can easily stack solid wood moldings onto the composite stock. The use of several types of trim stick at once is sometimes called “stacking”, by carpenters, builders, and architects. Stacking is a method for creating beautiful wainscotings, ornate window treatments, decorative pilasters, multiple-profile door casings, elaborate entablatures, fireplace mantels, and other architectural elements. Stacking lends itself well to the recreation of trim schemes, when used in building classical architectural features, such as the ones mentioned above. Stacking can also be used on features like round wooden columns; the principle is the same as it is for working with flat surfaces. The only difference is, with cylindrical columns, you're working with tight curves.
Like the high-density composites, the trim and molding products made from rigid foam have become vastly improved in recent years. Some of these foam products can be sawed using conventional power equipment, but other require the use of special saws and saw blades. Special foam-cutting saws look sort of like electric carving knives, the kind some folks use to trim a Thanksgiving turkey. These saws utilize a pair of like-sized alternating blades, which run at fairly low speeds.
When strength is not an issue, and the material can be used in out-of-the-way places, foam trim and moldings can sometimes be used, though they will need to receive a pain-ted finish.
There are companies that specialize in large, decorative architectural details, made from rigid foam --- products like door pediments, window treatments, and others. Some of these products are also made for exterior use, especially door treatments.One of the main benefits to using foam trim products, is their relatively low cost.Similar elements made from wood can run three of four times as much as those made from foam.But foam products cannot easily be shaped or sanded.That's why they're available mostly as pre-finished elements, sold as prime-coated units, or as painted units usually in gloss or semi-gloss white.
Tips On Working With Moldings And Trim
Obviously, one of the critical points to focus on when cutting molding or trim to length, is blade sharpness. Some woodworkers like the challenge of shaping their own moldings, using routers, router tables, and shapers. Most problems occur when blades are nicked, aren't running “true”. Of course, a dull router bit won't cut correctly either, but it can take quite a while to dull a high-quality carbide bit.
Router bits can be tough to sharpen at home. Take them to someone who specializes in sharpening saw blades. Check your miter saw blades for chipped or missing blade tips. If you look closely and carefully, you may notice an awful lot of imperfections.
A skilled blade sharpener can sharpen the blade teeth, and weld on new tips, if needed. These individuals are becoming increasingly difficult to find in this modern age.
Too many items seem to get thrown out in our “disposable society”. A local contractor's supply outlet may be able to direct you to an individual who can do this work for you. Keep in mind that it will be far cheaper to fix or sharpen your blades than replace them.
Next to a sharp saw blade, a sharp pencil is key to making accurate cuts. Don't use those wide, heavy framers' pencils for marking trim! Use a regular #2 lead pencil, and sharpen it as often as needed. Try to cut just to the heavy side of your mark. If your measurements are accurate, you'll end up with pieces of trim that fits snugly and beautifully.
Tricky Business; Working With Multi-Profile Moldings
Sanding multiple profile moldings can be tricky. The various curves, stops, edges, and inner angles are a challenge. You may find that certain cuts of store bought moldings have imperfections and rough spots in the same areas, on a consistent basis.There's little you can do about this type of problem, but if you have a fair amount of the same type of trim with the same kind of problem, it's best to make a few simple sanding blocks.
Moldings that feature curved profiles, like cove molding, round-over cap molding, and crown molding may require additional sanding, either before or after cutting them to fit. Ideally, a sanding block made as a mirror-image of the molding to be sanded would probably work best. But, such a block could be quite difficult to make. Therefore, a reason-able alternative would consist of several smaller blocks, each with its own special cut.
For sanding inside curves on moldings, a short length of wooden doweling will often do the trick. Just wrap your sandpaper around the dowel and run the dowel along the length of the molding, being careful not to roll it over the edges of other details of the profile.
To sand outside curves, you can usually run the sandpaper over surfaces by hand, without the aid of any additional block. Trimming and folding the paper to fit the curve helps.
When going for crisp detail on sharp edges of wood trim, many woodworkers tend to get carried away, and roll the edges. This can detract from the crisp profile of the trim.
One way to avoid this rolled-edge appearance, is to clamp a block of very straight wood along the edge of the trim piece being sanded, so that the two pieces are flush. This method works well for squared outer corners of flat trim, but not for more complex pieces. If you can't butt the two pieces together and clamp them neatly, you'll need to use another method.
If you have the space to do it, you could try using a “V” shaped sanding block, either cut from a single piece of wood, or made from two sections fastened together. Make the “V” which is simply a wedge of wood as small or large as needed. You can also add more sections of wood to the “V”, to help sand stepped profiles.
Detail sanders can be a good tool choice for sanding inside corners and coves on moldings, but be careful; some of these sanders run in an orbital motion, which may disfigure trim or create long irregular sanding marks on the trim. Be especially careful with any power sander when working with softwoods, like pine, because they'll tend to dig pockets or depressions into the moldings. In such cases, it's often preferable to sand items like these by hand.
If you use a power miter saw to cut trim and moldings, be sure your blade is sharp. If it isn't, you'll find out soon enough. It may be time to sharpen your saw blade – or, replace altogether. If your cuts aren't coming out nice and smooth (the way they should) – or, if they're coming out ragged or splintery, try an upgrade. Switching your saw blade to a higher tooth-count finishing blade will likely solve this issue. For fine work, even a 24-tooth blade may not be enough. You may need to go up to a 36 tooth blade.
Be sure that you're using a good-quality carbide saw blade. Buy the best quality blades you can afford --- and, most importantly, make sure that they're good and sharp!
Finish Nailing Tips
When nailing trim or moldings, try not to sink your finish nails closer than about 3 or 4 inches from the end of the wood. Doing so will likely result in splitting the wood. You can avoid splitting altogether by pre-drilling holes slightly smaller than the size of finish nail being used.
Be sure to use your nail “sets”, to sink finish nails below the surface of the wood. It's best to keep the 3 basic sizes of nail sets handy – small, medium, and large. Pre-drilling nail holes is usually a good idea, especially when large finish nails are being used.
Try to hold the nail set close to the bottom --- use the set as soon as nails are driven to within 1/8th of an inch to the wood surface, to keep from dinging the lumber. And use a finish hammer --- not that great big 28 ounce framing hammer! Try not to choke-up on the hammer too much. This will only make nailing more difficult. Let the weight of the hammer head do the work. It shouldn't take 50 strikes of the hammer to sink a finish nail! 8 to 10 swats ought to do the job – no more.
______________________________________________________________
Eric Knudsen is a freelance writer and a former restoration contractor, living in Upstate New York.
_______________________________________________________________
Press Releases & Current News
FEMA Updates Seismic Publication
FEMA, in late 2002, funded an effort to update its publication, Home Builders Guide to Seismic Resistant Design and Construction. The revision is now available from FEMA. The new version of the guide is entitled, Homebuilders Guide to Earthquake-Resistant Design and Construction (FEMA 232), and provides information on current best practices for earthquake-resistant home design and construction for use by home builders, designers, code officials, and potential home owners. It introduces and explains the effects of earthquake forces on one- and two-family detached houses and identifies the minimum requirements of the International Residential Code intended to resist these forces.
To get more information on this subject please visit the American Forest and Paper Association’s website where you can contact them for this information.
Courtesy of the AF&PA www.afandpa.org
Finely detailed examples of fine woodworking, created by the hands of true artists.
Now, we're going to jump ahead to the modern age, and discuss the different types of molding products available today. Plus, we'll give some helpful tips on how to work with these products.
Different Types Of Trim And Molding Products
Two of the more common alternative materials are “composites” --- made from glues and wood “by-products” like wood shavings, particles, and wood dust. The other common alternative material is a rigid foam product, usually prime-coated, ready to receive a paint finish. New formulations of both types of materials are being created every year.
Today, there are three basic types of wooden moldings and trim available; a solid wood product, clear, with a straight grain, “finger-jointed” stock, and wood composite stock.
Solid Wood Trim:
Will accept virtually any type of liquid finish, but is best-suited for natural finishes, because of its raw appearance. Straight grained wood trim is strong, and is nice to work with. It sands well, and can be stained to enhance its natural grain.
Finger-Jointed Trim:
This type of trim stock should be used when strength is not an issue, and an inexpensive painted finish is desired. Finger-jointed trim is a good choice when project costs are an issue. These products must be primed or sealed thoroughly, on all sides, because joint separation, warping, and splitting can be an issue. Nail holes should be pre-drilled, if nailing trim by hand. Nail and brad guns may split this kind of trim. Try to nail away from joints.
Wood Composite Trim:
Modern composites have been formulated to behave fairly well in recent years. Doors, wainscoting, shelving, and many types of trim made from composites, which are also known as “high-density board”. The much-improved material is nice to work with; it lays very flat, it sands fairly well, it cuts well, leaving crisp details when sawed, and it retains profiles clearly when put through routers or shapers.
In terms of finishing, composites must be painted, because of their particulate nature. However, due to their favorable degree of workability, woodworkers can easily stack solid wood moldings onto the composite stock. The use of several types of trim stick at once is sometimes called “stacking”, by carpenters, builders, and architects. Stacking is a method for creating beautiful wainscotings, ornate window treatments, decorative pilasters, multiple-profile door casings, elaborate entablatures, fireplace mantels, and other architectural elements. Stacking lends itself well to the recreation of trim schemes, when used in building classical architectural features, such as the ones mentioned above. Stacking can also be used on features like round wooden columns; the principle is the same as it is for working with flat surfaces. The only difference is, with cylindrical columns, you're working with tight curves.
Like the high-density composites, the trim and molding products made from rigid foam have become vastly improved in recent years. Some of these foam products can be sawed using conventional power equipment, but other require the use of special saws and saw blades. Special foam-cutting saws look sort of like electric carving knives, the kind some folks use to trim a Thanksgiving turkey. These saws utilize a pair of like-sized alternating blades, which run at fairly low speeds.
When strength is not an issue, and the material can be used in out-of-the-way places, foam trim and moldings can sometimes be used, though they will need to receive a pain-ted finish.
There are companies that specialize in large, decorative architectural details, made from rigid foam --- products like door pediments, window treatments, and others. Some of these products are also made for exterior use, especially door treatments.One of the main benefits to using foam trim products, is their relatively low cost.Similar elements made from wood can run three of four times as much as those made from foam.But foam products cannot easily be shaped or sanded.That's why they're available mostly as pre-finished elements, sold as prime-coated units, or as painted units usually in gloss or semi-gloss white.
Tips On Working With Moldings And Trim
Obviously, one of the critical points to focus on when cutting molding or trim to length, is blade sharpness. Some woodworkers like the challenge of shaping their own moldings, using routers, router tables, and shapers. Most problems occur when blades are nicked, aren't running “true”. Of course, a dull router bit won't cut correctly either, but it can take quite a while to dull a high-quality carbide bit.
Router bits can be tough to sharpen at home. Take them to someone who specializes in sharpening saw blades. Check your miter saw blades for chipped or missing blade tips. If you look closely and carefully, you may notice an awful lot of imperfections.
A skilled blade sharpener can sharpen the blade teeth, and weld on new tips, if needed. These individuals are becoming increasingly difficult to find in this modern age.
Too many items seem to get thrown out in our “disposable society”. A local contractor's supply outlet may be able to direct you to an individual who can do this work for you. Keep in mind that it will be far cheaper to fix or sharpen your blades than replace them.
Next to a sharp saw blade, a sharp pencil is key to making accurate cuts. Don't use those wide, heavy framers' pencils for marking trim! Use a regular #2 lead pencil, and sharpen it as often as needed. Try to cut just to the heavy side of your mark. If your measurements are accurate, you'll end up with pieces of trim that fits snugly and beautifully.
Tricky Business; Working With Multi-Profile Moldings
Sanding multiple profile moldings can be tricky. The various curves, stops, edges, and inner angles are a challenge. You may find that certain cuts of store bought moldings have imperfections and rough spots in the same areas, on a consistent basis.There's little you can do about this type of problem, but if you have a fair amount of the same type of trim with the same kind of problem, it's best to make a few simple sanding blocks.
Moldings that feature curved profiles, like cove molding, round-over cap molding, and crown molding may require additional sanding, either before or after cutting them to fit. Ideally, a sanding block made as a mirror-image of the molding to be sanded would probably work best. But, such a block could be quite difficult to make. Therefore, a reason-able alternative would consist of several smaller blocks, each with its own special cut.
For sanding inside curves on moldings, a short length of wooden doweling will often do the trick. Just wrap your sandpaper around the dowel and run the dowel along the length of the molding, being careful not to roll it over the edges of other details of the profile.
To sand outside curves, you can usually run the sandpaper over surfaces by hand, without the aid of any additional block. Trimming and folding the paper to fit the curve helps.
When going for crisp detail on sharp edges of wood trim, many woodworkers tend to get carried away, and roll the edges. This can detract from the crisp profile of the trim.
One way to avoid this rolled-edge appearance, is to clamp a block of very straight wood along the edge of the trim piece being sanded, so that the two pieces are flush. This method works well for squared outer corners of flat trim, but not for more complex pieces. If you can't butt the two pieces together and clamp them neatly, you'll need to use another method.
If you have the space to do it, you could try using a “V” shaped sanding block, either cut from a single piece of wood, or made from two sections fastened together. Make the “V” which is simply a wedge of wood as small or large as needed. You can also add more sections of wood to the “V”, to help sand stepped profiles.
Detail sanders can be a good tool choice for sanding inside corners and coves on moldings, but be careful; some of these sanders run in an orbital motion, which may disfigure trim or create long irregular sanding marks on the trim. Be especially careful with any power sander when working with softwoods, like pine, because they'll tend to dig pockets or depressions into the moldings. In such cases, it's often preferable to sand items like these by hand.
If you use a power miter saw to cut trim and moldings, be sure your blade is sharp. If it isn't, you'll find out soon enough. It may be time to sharpen your saw blade – or, replace altogether. If your cuts aren't coming out nice and smooth (the way they should) – or, if they're coming out ragged or splintery, try an upgrade. Switching your saw blade to a higher tooth-count finishing blade will likely solve this issue. For fine work, even a 24-tooth blade may not be enough. You may need to go up to a 36 tooth blade.
Be sure that you're using a good-quality carbide saw blade. Buy the best quality blades you can afford --- and, most importantly, make sure that they're good and sharp!
Finish Nailing Tips
When nailing trim or moldings, try not to sink your finish nails closer than about 3 or 4 inches from the end of the wood. Doing so will likely result in splitting the wood. You can avoid splitting altogether by pre-drilling holes slightly smaller than the size of finish nail being used.
Be sure to use your nail “sets”, to sink finish nails below the surface of the wood. It's best to keep the 3 basic sizes of nail sets handy – small, medium, and large. Pre-drilling nail holes is usually a good idea, especially when large finish nails are being used.
Try to hold the nail set close to the bottom --- use the set as soon as nails are driven to within 1/8th of an inch to the wood surface, to keep from dinging the lumber. And use a finish hammer --- not that great big 28 ounce framing hammer! Try not to choke-up on the hammer too much. This will only make nailing more difficult. Let the weight of the hammer head do the work. It shouldn't take 50 strikes of the hammer to sink a finish nail! 8 to 10 swats ought to do the job – no more.
______________________________________________________________
Eric Knudsen is a freelance writer and a former restoration contractor, living in Upstate New York.
_______________________________________________________________
Press Releases & Current News
FEMA Updates Seismic Publication
FEMA, in late 2002, funded an effort to update its publication, Home Builders Guide to Seismic Resistant Design and Construction. The revision is now available from FEMA. The new version of the guide is entitled, Homebuilders Guide to Earthquake-Resistant Design and Construction (FEMA 232), and provides information on current best practices for earthquake-resistant home design and construction for use by home builders, designers, code officials, and potential home owners. It introduces and explains the effects of earthquake forces on one- and two-family detached houses and identifies the minimum requirements of the International Residential Code intended to resist these forces.
To get more information on this subject please visit the American Forest and Paper Association’s website where you can contact them for this information.
Courtesy of the AF&PA www.afandpa.org
